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Walter Bonatti y Reinhold Messner ocupan un lugar privilegiado dentro de la historia del alpinismo. En tuvo lugar su primer encuentro, que marco el inicio de una tardia pero fraternal amistad.
En esta obra Messner se desnuda como quizas nunca antes lo habia hecho, enganchandonos con su honestidad y lucidez. Tras la tragedia de en la cual Toni Egger murio, en teoria despues de haber ascendido junto a Cesare Maestri el Cerro Torre, Reinhold Messner nos sumerge en una de sus investigaciones alpinisticas para desenredar este enigma de la escalada, entrevistando a la elite actual del alpinismo andino.
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You should receive an activation email shortly. Messner has crossed Antarctica on skis, together with fellow explorer Arved Fuchs.
He was also among the founders of Mountain Wilderness , an international NGO dedicated to the protection of mountains worldwide.
From until , Messner was married to Uschi Demeter. Up until , Messner had made a name for himself mainly through his achievements in the Alps.
Between and , he led over ascents, most of them in the Dolomites. In , he achieved further firsts: the Heiligkreuzkofel middle pillar and the direct south face of the Marmolada.
As a result, Messner won the reputation of being one of the best climbers in Europe. In , he was invited to join a major Himalayan expedition, which can be regarded as one of the turning points in Messner's life.
Messner was the first person to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders in the world and without supplemental oxygen.
His climbs were also all amongst the first 20 ascents for each mountain individually. Specifically, these are:.
Reinhold Messner took a total of five expeditions to Nanga Parbat. In and he reached the summit in solo ; in , and , he did not.
In he was primarily looking for his brother's remains. In May and June , Messner took part in the Nanga Parbat South Face expedition led by Karl Herrligkoffer, the objective of which was to climb the as yet unclimbed Rupal Face, the highest rock and ice face in the world.
Messner's brother, Günther, was also a member of the team. On the morning of 27 June, Messner was of the view that the weather would deteriorate rapidly, and set off alone from the last high-altitude camp.
Surprisingly his brother climbed after him and caught up to him before the summit. By late afternoon, both had reached the summit of the mountain and had to pitch an emergency bivouac shelter without tent, sleeping bags and stoves because darkness was closing in.
The events that followed have been the subject of years of legal actions and disputes between former expedition members, and have still not been finally resolved.
What is known now is that Reinhold and Günther Messner descended the Diamir Face, thereby achieving the first crossing of Nanga Parbat and second crossing of an eight-thousander after Mount Everest in Reinhold arrived in the valley six days later with severe frostbite, but survived.
His brother, Günther, however died on the Diamir Face—according to Reinhold Messner on the same descent, during which they became further and further separated from each other.
As a result, the time, place and exact cause of death is unknown. Messner said his brother had been swept away by an avalanche.
In the early years immediately after the expedition, there were disputes and lawsuits between Messner and Herrligkoffer, the expedition leader.
After a quarter-century of peace, the dispute flared up again in October , when Messner raised surprising allegations against the other members of the team for failing to come to their aid.
The rest of the team consistently maintained that Messner had told them of his idea for crossing the mountain before setting off for the summit.
Messner himself asserts, however, that he made a spontaneous decision to descend the Diamir Face together with his brother for reasons of safety.
A number of new books—by Max von Kienlin, Hans Saler, Ralf-Peter Märtin, and Reinhold Messner—stoked the dispute with assumptions and personal attacks and led to further court proceedings.
In June , after an unusual heat wave on the mountain, the body of his brother was recovered on the Diamir Face, which seems to support Messner's account of how Günther died.
The drama was turned into a film Nanga Parbat by Joseph Vilsmaier , based on the memories of Reinhold Messner and without participation from the other former members of the expedition.
Released in January in cinemas, the film was criticized by the other members of the team for telling only one side of the story.
Because of severe frostbite, especially on his feet—six toes were amputated—Messner was not able to climb quite as well on rock after the expedition.
He therefore turned his attention to higher mountains, where there was much more ice. On 9 August , after three unsuccessful expeditions, Messner reached the summit of Nanga Parbat again via the Diamir Face.
In , Messner succeeded in climbing Manaslu on what was then the unknown south face of the mountain, of which there were not even any pictures.
From the last high-altitude camp he climbed with Frank Jäger, who turned back before reaching the summit. Shortly after Messner reached the summit, the weather changed and heavy fog and snow descended.
Initially Messner became lost on the way down, but later, heading into the storm, found his way back to the camp, where Horst Fankhauser and Andi Schlick were waiting for him and Jäger.
Jäger did not return, although his cries were heard from the camp. Orientation had become too difficult. Fankhauser and Schlick began to search for him that evening, but lost their way and sought shelter at first in a snow cave.
Messner himself was no longer in a position to help the search. The following day, only Horst Fankhauser returned.
Andi Schlick had left the snow cave during the night and disappeared. So the expedition had to mourn the loss of two climbers.
Messner was later criticised for having allowed Jäger go back down the mountain alone. Together with Peter Habeler , Messner made a second ascent of Gasherbrum I on 10 August , becoming the first man ever to climb more than two eight-thousanders.
It was the first time a mountaineering expedition succeeded in scaling an eight-thousander using alpine style climbing.
Messner reached the summit again in , this time together with Hans Kammerlander. This was achieved as part of a double ascent where, for the first time, two eight-thousander peaks Gasherbrum I and II were climbed without returning to base camp.
Again, this was done in alpine style, i. On 8 May , Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler reached the summit of Mount Everest ; the first men known to climb it without the use of supplemental oxygen.
Prior to this ascent it was disputed whether this was possible at all. Messner and Habeler were members of an expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz along the southeast ridge to the summit.
Also on this expedition was Reinhard Karl , the first German to reach the summit, albeit with the aid of supplemental oxygen.
Two years later, on 20 August , Messner again stood atop the highest mountain in the world, without supplementary oxygen. For this solo climb, he chose the northeast ridge to the summit, where he crossed above the North Col in the North Face to the Norton Couloir and became the first man to climb through this steep gorge to the summit.
Messner decided spontaneously during the ascent to use this route to bypass the exposed northeast ridge. Prior to this solo ascent, he had not set up a camp on the mountain.
For , Messner was planning to climb K2 on a new direct route through the South Face, which he called the "Magic Line".
Because of avalanche danger on the original route and time lost on the approach, they decided on climbing via the Abruzzi Spur. The route was equipped with fixed ropes and high-altitude camps, but no hauling equipment Hochträger or bottled oxygen was used.
On 12 July, Messner and Dacher reached the summit; then the weather deteriorated and attempts by other members of the party failed.
During his stay in Tibet as part of his Everest solo attempt, Messner had the opportunity to explore Shishapangma.
A year later, Messner, with Friedel Mutschlechner, Oswald Oelz and Gerd Baur, set base camp on the north side of the only eight-thousander which is entirely within Chinese territory.
On 28 May, Messner and Mutschlechner reached the summit in very bad weather; part of the climb involving ski mountaineering.
In , Messner wanted to become the first climber ever to scale three eight-thousanders in one year. Messner chose a new variation of the route up the North Face.
Because there was still a lot of snow at the time of the expedition, Messner and Mutschlechner made very slow progress.
In addition, the sheer difficulty of the climb forced the two mountaineers to use fixed ropes. There, Mutschlechner suffered frostbite to his hands, and later to his feet as well.
Whilst bivouacking during the descent, the tent tore away from Mutschlechner and Messner, and Messner also fell ill.
He was suffering from amoebic liver abscess , making him very weak. In the end he only made it back to base camp with Mutschlechner's help.
After his ascent of Kangchenjunga, Mutschlechner flew back to Europe because his frostbite had to be treated and Messner needed rest.